[{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org\/","@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/www.karikari.cz\/lidsky-faktor\/#Article","mainEntityOfPage":"https:\/\/www.karikari.cz\/lidsky-faktor\/","headline":"Lidsk\u00fd faktor","name":"Lidsk\u00fd faktor","description":"Technick\u00e9 zabezpe\u010den\u00ed horolezce mus\u00ed b\u00fdt na takov\u00e9 \u00farovni, aby dok\u00e1zalo pokr\u00fdt tzv. lidsk\u00fd faktor. Ka\u017ed\u00fd \u010dlov\u011bk je toti\u017e omyln\u00fd, chybuje v\u0161ak nej\u010dast\u011bji v krizov\u00fdch situac\u00edch, anebo pod psychick\u00fdm \u010di fyzick\u00fdm tlakem. Nen\u00ed nutn\u00e9 popisovat, \u017ee horolezci jsou vystaveni tlaku podobn\u00e9mu, jako piloti dopravn\u00edch letadel. Ne\u010dekan\u00fd p\u00e1d m\u016f\u017ee p\u0159ij\u00edt v okam\u017eiku,","datePublished":"2018-08-25","dateModified":"2023-05-11","author":{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/www.karikari.cz\/author\/#Person","name":"","url":"https:\/\/www.karikari.cz\/author\/","identifier":1,"image":{"@type":"ImageObject","@id":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/55e7fbc61e9322b6822dac9bb7a03f27da3135fab89e5bb0463eeaffc32ea652?s=96&d=mm&r=g","url":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/55e7fbc61e9322b6822dac9bb7a03f27da3135fab89e5bb0463eeaffc32ea652?s=96&d=mm&r=g","height":96,"width":96}},"publisher":{"@type":"Organization","name":"karikari.cz","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","@id":"\/logo.png","url":"\/logo.png","width":600,"height":60}},"image":{"@type":"ImageObject","@id":"https:\/\/www.karikari.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/img_a322155_w2132_t1533669459.jpg","url":"https:\/\/www.karikari.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/img_a322155_w2132_t1533669459.jpg","height":0,"width":0},"url":"https:\/\/www.karikari.cz\/lidsky-faktor\/","wordCount":470,"articleBody":"Technick\u00e9 zabezpe\u010den\u00ed horolezce mus\u00ed b\u00fdt na takov\u00e9 \u00farovni, aby dok\u00e1zalo pokr\u00fdt tzv. lidsk\u00fd faktor. Ka\u017ed\u00fd \u010dlov\u011bk je toti\u017e omyln\u00fd, chybuje v\u0161ak nej\u010dast\u011bji v krizov\u00fdch situac\u00edch, anebo pod psychick\u00fdm \u010di fyzick\u00fdm tlakem. Nen\u00ed nutn\u00e9 popisovat, \u017ee horolezci jsou vystaveni tlaku podobn\u00e9mu, jako piloti dopravn\u00edch letadel. Ne\u010dekan\u00fd p\u00e1d m\u016f\u017ee p\u0159ij\u00edt v okam\u017eiku, kdy nejsme my\u0161lenkami soust\u0159ed\u011bni na problematickou situaci, a v\u011bzte, \u017ee s t\u011bmi se horolezci pot\u00fdkaj\u00ed neust\u00e1le. Prov\u011b\u0161en\u00e9 lano To b\u00fdv\u00e1 nej\u010dast\u011bj\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00ed\u010dinou p\u00e1d\u016f a smrteln\u00fdch \u00faraz\u016f. Doch\u00e1z\u00ed k tomu v situac\u00edch, kdy prvolezec podcen\u00ed prov\u011b\u0161en\u00ed lana, stejn\u011b tak je tomu u jist\u00edc\u00ed osoby. Provaz se prov\u011b\u0161uje i v d\u016fsledku \u0161patn\u00e9 obsluhy jist\u00edtek (kladek a blokant\u016f). Paradoxn\u011b doch\u00e1z\u00ed k t\u011b\u017ek\u00fdm \u00faraz\u016fm v\u011bt\u0161inou na po\u010d\u00e1tku lezen\u00ed, kdy je lano p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 uvoln\u011bn\u00e9 u ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed prvolezc\u016f. Velmi \u010dastou, p\u0159esto nebezpe\u010dnou situac\u00ed, je nevhodn\u011b vym\u011b\u0159en\u00e1 d\u00e9lka voln\u00e9ho lana, kterou prvolezec nab\u00edr\u00e1 je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed zacvaknut\u00edm do expresn\u00ed smy\u010dky tvo\u0159en\u00e9 dv\u011bma karabinami. T\u0159i principy Logice t\u0159\u00ed princip\u016f se \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 \u201e\u017eivot nebo smrt\u201c. Vznikla na z\u00e1klad\u011b mnohalet\u00fdch zku\u0161enost\u00ed lezc\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed se vyd\u00e1vaj\u00ed na um\u011bl\u00e9 st\u011bny i do horsk\u00e9ho masivu. Tuto mnemotechnickou pom\u016fcku lze p\u0159irovnat k \u017eidli \u2013 trojno\u017ece. Jestli\u017ee trojno\u017ece uhnije (rozpadne se) jedna noha, sk\u00e1c\u00ed se, proto\u017ee zb\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00ed dv\u011b ji neudr\u017e\u00ed.Princip \u010d. 1 \u2013 jist\u00edc\u00ed lezec mus\u00ed db\u00e1t na brzd\u00edc\u00ed ruku. Brzdn\u00e9 lano (to co vych\u00e1z\u00ed z jist\u00edtka voln\u011b) je v tu chv\u00edli dostate\u010dn\u011b napnuto mezi brzd\u00edc\u00ed rukou a jist\u00edtkem. Pustit brzd\u00edc\u00ed vl\u00e1kno t\u0159eba jen na okam\u017eik, m\u016f\u017ee skon\u010dit tragicky.Princip \u010d. 2 \u2013 jist\u00edtko je konstruov\u00e1no s brzd\u00edc\u00edm mechanismem, kter\u00fd nesm\u00ed b\u00fdt omezen \u017e\u00e1dnou mechanickou p\u0159ek\u00e1\u017ekou. Brzd\u00edc\u00ed ruka v\u0161ak mus\u00ed p\u0159i p\u00e1du lezce vl\u00e1kno udr\u017eet v takov\u00e9 poloze, aby samotn\u00fd mechanismus brzdy byl funk\u010dn\u00ed (jde o jist\u00fd drobn\u00fd r\u00e1dius, kde se lano p\u0159ibrzd\u00ed, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b zasekne).Princip \u010d. 3 \u2013 \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd alkohol a psychotropn\u00ed l\u00e1tky, kter\u00e9 omezuj\u00ed lidsk\u00e9 reflexy. Jestli\u017ee je \u010dlov\u011bk \u201ev pohod\u011b\u201c a nen\u00ed pod vlivem alkoholu apod., m\u00e1 tzv. sv\u00edrac\u00ed reflex. Pokud toti\u017e p\u0159i p\u00e1du lezci hroz\u00ed, \u017ee by se mu lano vysmeklo z ruky, dlan\u011b podv\u011bdom\u011b ve zlomku sekundy reflexivn\u011b sev\u0159ou provaz a z\u00e1rove\u0148 s n\u00edm trhnou sm\u011brem k t\u011blu \u2013 k sob\u011b, a to i tehdy, kdy je \u010dlov\u011bk k smrti vyd\u011b\u0161en\u00fd.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        4.2\/5 - (8 votes)        "},{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org\/","@type":"BreadcrumbList","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Lidsk\u00fd faktor","item":"https:\/\/www.karikari.cz\/lidsky-faktor\/#breadcrumbitem"}]}]